In November 2025, I went on a very special trip. Together with 66 Dharma brothers and sisters, I set off for Bhutan. Being the only German in this group from the USA, China, Taiwan, and Sri Lanka, I felt at home right away. We were a wonderful mix of monks, nuns, Rinpoches, and lay Buddhists. We all met in Thailand first to travel on to Paro together.
Our goal was more than just a visit. We came to honor the holy sites of this country and to dive into Bhutan’s deep-rooted Buddhist tradition. Of course, we were also excited to get to know the land and its people. Dedicated members of our group took care of the entire organization. Thanks to their excellent planning and the great local guides, everything ran smoothly. We also owe the fact that this trip was possible in this special way to the Venerable Dr. Chandima from Sri Lanka. Through his personal connections to the Kingdom of Bhutan, doors opened for us that might otherwise have remained closed. Having the Venerable Master Shi Zheng Da with us was also especially valuable.
We brought two matters close to our hearts with us. First, it was important to us not to arrive empty-handed. We had collected donations within the group to directly support the hospital in Thimphu and the expectant mothers there. Second, it was our spiritual mission to represent the Buddha Dharma as we learned it from H.H. Dorje Chang Buddha III. Connected to this was the wish to share news of the “Holy Heavenly Lake Buddhist Town” project, which is planned to provide space for over 30 Buddhist centers from all over the world.
Arrival in Paro & the Journey to Thimphu
We landed in Paro on November 9th. From there, we took a bus about 40 kilometers through the valley to Thimphu. What I noticed immediately was that the entire road was decorated with five-colored banners. Our guide told us that this was the welcome greeting for the international guests of the “Global Peace Prayer Festival.”
Thimphu itself was incredibly busy. Several events were happening at once: alongside the festival and the King’s upcoming birthday, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi was also expected for a state visit. You have to know that Thimphu is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights. Despite the crowds and the resulting traffic chaos, everyone remained calm. No one pushed, and people were patient and respectful. This relaxed attitude really impressed me.
National Memorial Chorten: The Spiritual Heart of Thimphu
After checking into our first hotel, we visited the National Memorial Chorten. This is a large, white stupa in the middle of the city, built in 1974 for the third King. For the locals, this is an important place in everyday life. Many go there to walk around the stupa and spin the prayer wheels.
As at all holy sites, photography is not allowed inside. A simple rule applies: as soon as the shoes come off, the camera stays off. This allowed us to soak in the atmosphere without any distractions. The interior houses larger-than-life statues of wrathful deities in Yab-Yum posture and murals of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), Shakyamuni Buddha, and Ngawang Namgyal, the unifier of Bhutan. Colorful sculptures stand in all four directions. There are also mandalas, shrines for the third King, and images of Vajrakilaya.
Impressions (in order): The white Memorial Chorten, pilgrims at the prayer wheels, the sea of lights from the butter lamps, believers performing prostrations, and our group in front of the stupa.
Our group took the opportunity to chant on the square in front of the stupa, led by the Venerable Master Shi Zheng Da. It was a beautiful experience to do this at such a place.
Authentic Bhutanese Crafts Bazaar: Traditional Arts and Crafts
In the evening, I took the chance to stroll along Norzin Lam. That is where the Authentic Bhutanese Crafts Bazaar is located, which you enter through a distinct red gate. Behind it, many small huts are lined up where local artisans display their goods. There was really a lot to discover. Besides handmade textiles, jewelry, wood carvings, and thangkas, you can also find nice souvenirs to remember the trip by.
Global Peace Prayer Festival: Shared Prayers for Peace
November 10th was all about the Global Peace Prayer Festival. Since the stadium was within walking distance of our hotel, we went there on foot. Even on the street, we could feel how many people were flocking to this event. Once inside the stadium, we showed our respect through prostrations before the Venerables present. Afterwards, we were given a spot on the side where we could join in the peace prayers.
From there, we watched the program on the main stage, where various Buddhist traditions took turns with their recitations. Between the prayer sessions, there were traditional dances and songs. I was deeply impressed by how many people came together there peacefully. It was simply a good feeling to be right there among them.
Buddha Dordenma: The Golden Statue Above the Valley
After noon, we continued to the Buddha Dordenma statue in Kuensel Phodrang Nature Park. This is an impressive, 51-meter-high statue of the seated Shakyamuni Buddha. It is made of bronze and completely gilded. By the way, it was built to celebrate the 60th birthday of the fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.
Inside the building beneath the statue, there are over 100,000 small Buddhas, also made of bronze and gold. Every single one was donated. There is also a large meditation hall with many more beautiful Buddha statues. Various relics are kept in these rooms, which we were allowed to see during our visit.
Impressions of the Buddha Dordenma statue: The gigantic seated statue in side view, ritual structures featuring traditional thread crosses (Namkha/Mdos) on the plaza, the view up to the Buddha’s face, a relief of a blue elephant on the golden base, and the view over the square featuring golden Dakini statues.
What made this visit special was not just the statue itself. Right there, the conclusion of the Jabshi Gyap ritual was taking place. This is a major, multi-day ceremony intended to purify negative karma and bring healing. Thousands of devotees, monks, and Rinpoches were gathered. We learned that this ritual was done specifically for world peace. It was our good fortune that we could be there at exactly that moment.
A Matter of the Heart: Support for Expectant Mothers
We had collected money in advance to support 500 expectant mothers with care packages. For this reason, we gathered at the end of the day for a ceremonial handover at the hospital in Thimphu.
In addition to our travel group, hospital staff, the Secretary to the Health Minister, and some mothers also took part. We had the opportunity to personally hand over the first packages to the mothers present.
With that, the first days in the capital were over. Next, the journey would take us out of the city, to ancient Dzongs and into nature.
Source: https://xuanfa-dharmazentrum.de/en/blog-en/pilgrimage-bhutan-1-thimphu/
Peace LiLy 