Xiaoxitian, originally known as Qianfo’an (The Hermitage of a Thousand Buddhas), was founded in the second year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty (1629). It stands atop Phoenix Mountain, about one kilometer west of Xixian County in Linfen, Shanxi Province.
Built entirely in harmony with the mountain, the temple unfolds in layers, as if it had grown naturally from the slope itself. Stone steps lead visitors upward, passing through courtyards divided by arched cave-like gateways. The upper, middle, and front courtyards are connected yet distinct, creating a spatial rhythm that is winding, intimate, and quietly profound. As one walks through the complex, footsteps instinctively slow, and time itself seems to soften.
The architecture of Xiaoxitian is restrained rather than ostentatious, yet its mastery reveals itself everywhere. Painted beams are elegant and dignified, and many of the halls are ingeniously built as two-story structures, creating a rich sense of vertical space within the limited mountain terrain. The bell and drum towers stand in stillness, inviting the imagination to wander back to an age when morning bells and evening drums echoed through the valley.
Stepping into the Mahavira Hall is a moment of sudden awe. Nearly the entire interior is filled with suspended polychrome sculptures—more than 1,900 figures, layered from floor to ceiling. From towering Buddhas over three meters high to figures no larger than a thumb, the sculptures are densely arranged yet never chaotic, solemn yet vibrantly alive. In that instant, one understands why Xiaoxitian is revered as the “Museum of Chinese Hanging Sculpture Art.”
Unlike many Buddhist temples that draw attention primarily to their principal Buddhas, the Mahavira Hall at Xiaoxitian is celebrated for the immersive world it creates as a whole. At its core stand the Medicine Buddha, Amitabha, Shakyamuni, Vairocana, and Maitreya, but surrounding them unfolds an entire celestial realm: the Ten Great Disciples, six young novices, the Ten Wisdom Kings, the Six Desire Heavens, and countless heavenly musicians dancing through the air.
Most unforgettable are the celestial musicians suspended within the tiered “sky pavilions” above the altars. Their figures are light and graceful, sleeves flowing as if caught in an eternal breeze, frozen in a moment of unending heavenly music. Some play the pipa, others hold flutes, while some seem to dance midair. One pipa-playing figure, leaning slightly forward with fingers poised on the strings, radiates such focus and elegance that one can almost hear the melody drifting across centuries.
Looking up toward the roof, the tri-colored glazed chiwen ornaments—yellow, green, and blue—gleam softly in the light. Their refined brilliance reflects the unmistakable aesthetic of the Ming Dynasty. Here, architecture, sculpture, and color merge seamlessly, and one forgets that this is a mountain temple at all. It feels instead like stepping into a floating Buddha realm, suspended between earth and sky.
That these sculptures have survived nearly four hundred years in such vivid detail inspires deep reverence. They represent not only the pinnacle of craftsmanship, but also a profound devotion—to faith, to beauty, and to a harmonious vision of the cosmos.
Perhaps what truly moves the heart at Xiaoxitian is not only the astonishing number of its hanging sculptures or the rare Ming Yongle Northern Buddhist Canon once preserved here, but something more enduring: a spiritual presence that has remained vibrant across centuries. It quietly reminds us that beyond the noise of the modern world, there still exists a place of serenity and dignity—carefully upheld by time itself.
Zhijin Cave, located in Zhijin County, Bijie City, Guizhou Province, is a high-altitude dry cave of great diversity, complexity, and scale. Inside, the karst formations are unique, vast, majestic, and breathtakingly exquisite, making it a dream destination for countless visitors.
Zhijin Cave, renowned as the “King of Karst Caves,” stands out among other famous karst caves such as Zhangjiajie’s Yellow Dragon Cave (about 100,000 sqm), Chongqing’s Furong Cave (about 37,000 sqm), and Guilin’s Reed Flute Cave (about 14,900 sqm) due to its unparalleled size and grandeur. Spanning over 700,000 square meters, Zhijin Cave is the largest of its kind, featuring 12 grand halls and 47 chambers, each adorned with unique and breathtaking formations. The cave’s largest chamber reaches an impressive width of 175 meters, while six of its halls exceed 10,000 square meters in area, highlighting its monumental scale.
The cave is adorned with a wide variety of karst formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, stone pillars, flowstones, and stone curtains. These formations come in unique shapes, resembling pagodas, plants, animals, and even mythical creatures, showcasing nature’s artistic craftsmanship.
Among its countless highlights, several are especially unforgettable:
The Overlord’s Helmet (“Ba Wang Kui”) – A 17-meter-tall stalagmite shaped like a warrior’s helmet, known as the crown jewel of Zhijin Cave. Lit by orange light and reflected in the pool below, it appears both majestic and lifelike, as if the legendary warlord Xiang Yu himself had left his helmet behind.
The Pillar of Heaven (“Qian Ceng Bao Ta”) – At the junction of the North and South Gates stands a towering stone column that seems to prop up the sky. Called the “Mainstay of the River,” it symbolizes strength, resilience, and the ability to stand tall in times of trial.
Mother-in-law and Daughter-in-law (“Po Xi Qing Shen”) – Two pine-shaped stalagmites, one stooped like an old woman and the other upright like her filial daughter-in-law massaging her back. The scene is tender, lifelike, and moving, embodying the Chinese virtue of filial piety.
The Lingxiao Palace – A stunning stone waterfall, one of the largest yet discovered, cascading magnificently from the ceiling. Around it stand stone banners, draperies, and a majestic hall of “stalagmite soldiers,” as if a grand palace had opened its doors for a celestial council.
Snow Pressing on the Green Pine (“Xue Ya Qing Song”) – A 20-meter-tall stalagmite shaped like a pine tree blanketed in snow, one of the cave’s signature sights. Its upright strength recalls Marshal Chen Yi’s famous poem: “Though snow weighs heavily on the pine, the pine stands tall and straight.” It symbolizes resilience, dignity, and unyielding spirit.
The spectacular karst landscapes of Zhijin Cave embody grandeur, vastness, and beauty beyond imagination. A tour through its endless halls, lasting over two hours, is an ever-unfolding journey of wonder—each chamber a new astonishment, each formation a marvel of nature.
It’s no surprise that Zhijin Cave is honored as the “King of Caves.” As the saying goes: “After Huangshan, no other mountains; beyond Zhijin Cave, no other caves.” The reputation is well deserved.
Practical Tips to Visit Zhijin Cave
Zhijin Cave is located in Guanzhai Miao Ethnic Village, Zhijin County, Bijie City, Guizhou Province. The cave is approximately 120 kilometers (75 miles) from Guiyang, the capital of Guizhou Province.
Bijie City has a total of 9 railway stations and 1 airport. 2 stations are located in Zhijin County, only serving normal trains. The closest high-speed rail station to Zhijin Cave is Qianxi Railway Station, about 45 km away.
Footwear: The cave has stairs and a small section of uneven paths, and the ground can be wet and slippery. Anti-slip footwear is recommended for safety and comfort.
Clothing: The cave maintains a constant temperature of 16°C (61°F). However, the humidity and cool air can make it feel chilly, so it’s best to carry a light jacket.
Food and Drinks: There are no dining options or shops within the cave, so it’s a good idea to bring your own snacks and drinks to stay energized during your visit. If you forget to bring snacks, there is a convenience store at the cave exit where you can purchase refreshments.
Located in the northwest of Mount Tai, Lingyan Temple was founded during the Eastern Jin Dynasty and boasts a history of over 1,600 years. It is regarded as one of the most important sacred sites of Chinese Buddhist culture. Since the Tang Dynasty, Lingyan Temple has enjoyed great renown, and together with Qixia Temple in Nanjing, Guoqing Temple on Mount Tiantai in Zhejiang, and Yuquan Temple in Dangyang, Hubei, it has been hailed as one of the “Four Great Temples of China.” The eminent monk Tang Xuanzang once resided here to translate Buddhist scriptures. From Emperor Gaozong of Tang onward, many emperors stopped to worship at this temple on their way to perform imperial rites at Mount Tai, a testament to its revered historical status.
Although I personally prefer the majestic beauty of untouched natural landscapes, I was deeply moved by the profound cultural and religious artistry of Lingyan Temple. Within the temple grounds, ancient trees such as Chinese wingnut, cypress, and banyan rise skyward, creating a tranquil and sacred atmosphere. As an integral part of the World Natural and Cultural Heritage site of Mount Tai, Lingyan Temple is especially renowned for its colored clay sculptures of Arhats, which hold a prominent place in the history of Chinese sculpture.
Stepping into the solemn Thousand Buddha Hall, one is struck by the breathtaking sight of the Arhat statues—40 lifelike clay figures arranged in a semicircle along the inner walls. Among them, 29 represent disciples of Shakyamuni and Indian masters such as Bodhidharma and Kumarajiva. The remaining 11 depict eminent Chinese monks, including Huiyuan, Huike, Huichong, and various abbots of Lingyan Temple. According to inscriptions and scholarly research, the original set consisted of 32 statues, first created in the third year of the Zhiping reign of Emperor Yingzong of the Song Dynasty (1066). Additional painting and sculpting were done in the first year of the Zhiyuan reign (1328) during the Yuan Dynasty. The Thousand Buddha Hall was renovated in the 15th year of the Wanli reign (1587) in the Ming Dynasty, at which time the number of Arhats was increased to 40. The final touch-up was completed in the 13th year of the Tongzhi reign (1874) of the Qing Dynasty.
Each statue stands about 1.6 meters tall and is seated on a waist-high brick pedestal roughly 80 centimeters in height, with the top of each statue rising 105 to 110 centimeters above the seat. The overall sculptural style is remarkably realistic, emphasizing the individuality and inner spirit of each figure: square faces, prominent noses, distinct facial features, and dynamic, textured robe patterns. The ancient artisans broke away from conventional, stylized Buddhist iconography and instead grounded their work in real life, endowing each Arhat with unique expressions and postures—some sit in meditation, others clasp their hands or hold staffs; some appear ragged and emaciated, while others exude noble dignity and elegance. Each figure is infused with spirit and personality, appearing almost alive, as if they might speak or move at any moment.
What’s even more astonishing is the meticulous attention to detail in both facial expressions and bodily movement, as well as the relationship between the robes and the human form. The flowing lines of the garments, the way the folds respond to motion, and the tactile quality of the fabric all reflect a masterful understanding of form and rhythm. One medical expert even remarked that, “Through the Arhats’ robes, one can perceive the ancients’ precise grasp of human anatomy.”
The Arhat sculptures at Lingyan Temple are not only masterpieces of religious art but also represent the pinnacle of ancient Chinese realistic sculpture. The renowned scholar Liang Qichao once visited the site and inscribed a stone tablet calling them “The finest sculptures in the land.” Famed art master Liu Haisu also praised them, writing: “The Arhats of Lingyan—first under heaven—vivid and lifelike, with flesh and spirit.”
Lingyan Temple is more than a place of worship—it is a living chronicle of Buddhist heritage carved from clay and shaped by the hands of genius. Whether you are a devout practitioner, a history enthusiast, or an art lover, a visit to Lingyan Temple will surely leave you moved by its rich cultural legacy and breathtaking artistic beauty.
Longxing Temple, also known as the Great Buddha Temple, is one of China’s oldest, largest, and best-preserved Buddhist temples. This extraordinary complex is not only a sacred site but also a magnificent testament to the architectural genius and spiritual devotion of ancient China.
Located at No. 109 Zhongshan East Road in Zhengding County, Shijiazhuang, Hebei Province, Longxing Temple sprawls across an impressive 82,500 square meters.
Originally established in 586 CE during the Sui Dynasty under the name Longcang Temple, it was later renamed Longxing Temple during the Tang Dynasty. In 971 CE, Emperor Taizu of the Northern Song Dynasty issued an edict to cast an enormous bronze Thousand-Armed Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva and build the splendid Hall of Great Compassion to house it.
This marked the beginning of large-scale expansion, culminating in a grand Song Dynasty architectural complex centered on the hall. Through the Jin, Yuan, and Ming Dynasties, the temple saw continued renovation and growth. In the Qing Dynasty, both Kangxi and Qianlong Emperors decreed extensive rebuilding, shaping the temple’s current layout:
The eastern section served as monks’ quarters
The central axis hosted Buddhist ceremonies
The western area functioned as the imperial palace quarters
In 1710, Emperor Kangxi personally inscribed the name “Longxing Temple,” an honor that reflects its enduring importance.
Today, visitors can trace a north–south axis that passes through a series of majestic structures: the Hall of Heavenly Kings, Mani Hall, the Ordination Altar, the Revolving Sutra Library, and more than a dozen other halls and pavilions. The complex is celebrated as a textbook example of ancient Chinese Buddhist temple design.
Recognized among China’s ten most famous temples, Longxing Temple was declared a Major National Historical and Cultural Site in 1961 and later designated a National AAAA Tourist Attraction.
Highlights Not to Miss
Hall of Heavenly Kings
First built in the Northern Song Dynasty, this is the oldest surviving structure of its kind within the temple. Even after a major renovation in 1780, its main timber frame remains original.
Above the entrance, plaques bearing the calligraphy of the Kangxi Emperor read:
“Imperially Established Longxing Temple” “Hall of Heavenly Kings”
Inside stands the famous Big-Bellied Maitreya Buddha, a Jin Dynasty wood carving over 800 years old. Thoroughly localized in Chinese style, this smiling figure derives from the legendary monk Qici, known for his benevolence and laughter.
On either side stand the Four Great Heavenly Kings, each symbolizing auspicious natural forces:
Wind (Southern King, with a sword)
Harmony (Eastern King, with a lute)
Rain (Northern King, with a precious umbrella)
Compliance (Western King, with a coiled snake)
Together, they express the blessing of abundant harvests and national peace.
Mani Hall
Built in 1052, Mani Hall has an unusual cross-shaped floor plan created by four gabled annexes extending from its square central chamber.
Inside, five golden clay Buddha statues preside over the altar, with Shakyamuni Buddha at the center.
The hall’s north wall showcases a breathtaking polychrome relief nearly 16 meters long, depicting swirling clouds, celestial beings, and Avalokiteshvara stepping onto a lotus—symbolizing the entrance to the Western Pure Land.
At the heart of this scene sits the Backward-Facing Avalokiteshvara, so named because she faces north instead of south. Far from a supernatural image, this Avalokiteshvara appears as a serene, youthful woman with an expression so vivid and gentle it moves all who gaze upon her.
Visitors often remark:
“How beautiful—how extraordinary! She sits so naturally, one leg casually crossed, her eyes meeting yours wherever you stand. Her smile is as enigmatic as the Mona Lisa—truly ‘The Most Beautiful Avalokiteshvara.’”
Ordination Altar
Reserved for the most important temples, the Ordination Altar was where monks received their vows.
Inside the altar stands a unique double-sided bronze Buddha statue. Facing south is Amitabha Buddha, and facing north is Medicine Buddha. The two figures share a single body, seated back to back in lotus posture.
The statues are depicted in full lotus position, wearing five-leaf crowns, with round, gentle faces. Their necks are adorned with necklaces and their arms with bangles, while flowing sashes drape gracefully from their shoulders. Amitabha’s hands form the meditation mudra, while Medicine Buddha’s hands display the gesture of compassion.
Their expressions are serene and tranquil, exuding a quiet dignity and solemn beauty in their elegant simplicity.
Longteng Garden
To the northeast lies Longteng Garden, a Ming and Qing–style garden combining cultural heritage and tranquil scenery.
Here you’ll find:
Northern Dynasties stone statues
A Jin Dynasty scripture pillar
A Yuan Dynasty mural tomb
The Ming Dynasty Longquan Well Pavilion
The “Three Generations of Vice Ministers” stone archway
Meandering through its pavilions, terraces, and lush paths feels like stepping into a living scroll of history.
Cultural Traditions
Imperial Buddhist Ceremony Performance
Zhengding’s Longxing Temple is an imperial temple that was visited and funded for repairs by emperors over many dynasties. According to The Chronicles of Longxing Temple, in the 49th year of Emperor Kangxi’s reign (1710 CE), the emperor ordered funds to be allocated from the national treasury to restore Longxing Temple. After the renovations were completed, Emperor Kangxi personally came to pay homage and bestowed 19 inscribed plaques, including one reading “Longxing Temple Constructed by Imperial Decree,” all handwritten by himself.
At the end of 2011, drawing on historical records, the Cultural Heritage Office re-created the Grand Imperial Buddhist Ceremony, reenacting the scene of Emperor Kangxi’s arrival at Longxing Temple, the local officials welcoming the imperial entourage, and the emperor bestowing plaques, offering incense, and performing rituals to honor the Buddha.
Thousand-Armed Avalokiteshvara Performance
Inside the Great Compassion Pavilion of Zhengding’s Longxing Temple stands a bronze statue of the Thousand-Armed, Thousand-Eyed Avalokiteshvara, measuring 21.3 meters in height. Cast in the 4th year of the Kaibao era of the Northern Song Dynasty (971 CE), this towering bronze figure is remarkable both for its immense size and its exquisite craftsmanship.
It is the tallest and oldest ancient bronze Buddha statue of its kind in the world. It is not only a symbol of Longxing Temple but also an emblem of the ancient city of Zhengding.
The Thousand-Armed Avalokiteshvara Performance features graceful melodies and captivating dance that vividly convey the divine presence and compassion of the bodhisattva.
Longxing Temple is more than a historical monument—it is a living symbol of Chinese Buddhist art, architecture, and spirituality. Whether you come for quiet reflection, cultural discovery, or simply to stand before centuries of devotion, this magnificent temple will leave a lasting impression on your heart.
Nestled in the heart of Xinjiang, the Turpan Basin holds several extraordinary records: it’s the lowest geographical point in China, and during summer, it’s the hottest place in the country. With scorching sunlight, relentless winds, and almost no rainfall, Turpan earns its title as the “Land of Fire.”
In the peak of summer, the surface temperature in the surrounding Gobi Desert can soar to 82.3°C (180.1°F), while the air temperature often exceeds 49°C (120°F). Rain is almost nonexistent—Turpan receives an average of just 16.4 mm of rainfall annually, and in some years, as little as 4.3 mm. Yet, amidst this harsh, parched environment, an ancient miracle has quietly sustained life for over two thousand years: the Karez irrigation system.
A Miracle Beneath the Earth
While nature was unforgiving above ground, it hid a gift below. Meltwater from the distant Tianshan Mountains seeps underground through coarse gravel and sand, eventually blocked by the Flaming Mountains and surfacing as springs. Ingenious local people found a way to capture and guide this underground treasure—thus, the Karez was born.
The Karez system channels water from mountain sources through a network of underground tunnels and vertical shafts, delivering it to the arid land without evaporation loss. Remarkably, this ancient system operates entirely without pumps, relying solely on gravity and terrain.
A complete Karez includes:
Vertical shafts for ventilation and maintenance
Underground tunnels to carry water
Open canals to distribute it
Storage ponds to hold it
Across Turpan’s landscape, you can still see long rows of small mounds—each one marking a shaft, a glimpse into the remarkable infrastructure below.
A Testament to Ingenuity and Endurance
The origins of the Karez can be traced back to the Han Dynasty, over 2,000 years ago. Most of the surviving systems were built during the Qing Dynasty, including during historical moments like Lin Zexu’s fourth inspection of Turpan, when over 300 new Karez channels were added, and Zuo Zongtang’s campaigns, which saw nearly 200 more constructed.
At its peak in the 1950s, there were about 1,700 Karez systems in Turpan, stretching over 3,000 kilometers. Today, about 725 remain, a number slowly dwindling due to modernization, drought, and human impact.
The construction of each Karez was no small feat. Generations of laborers worked in dark, narrow tunnels, often barefoot in icy water, chiseling stone with simple tools and oil lamps. They carried earth and rock out by hand, surviving on dry flatbread and enduring brutal conditions.
A Culture of Water, Wisdom, and Survival
More than just a hydraulic system, the Karez represents a culture—a story of human resilience, harmony with nature, and intergenerational wisdom. In this water-scarce land, the Karez has nurtured lush vineyards, fertile fields, and diverse communities, offering life where none should thrive.
Today, many of these systems are dry or abandoned, relics of a past shaped by necessity and brilliance. But for those who walk among them, they are still very much alive—whispers from the earth, reminding us of what is possible when people respect and work with nature.
If you ever find yourself in Turpan, do not miss the chance to explore the Karez wells. They are more than ancient engineering marvels—they are monuments of perseverance, and living echoes of a civilization that made the desert bloom.
A walkway in Enshi Canyon, China’s Grand Canyon. Jean Spoljaric photos.
A Visit to the Chinese Grand Canyon in Enshi
By Jean Miller Spoljaric
My trip to the Hubei (Hu-bay) Province of Central China proved to be a real eye-opener. It was a culture shock for me, but life as they know it for them. I traveled from Beijing to Wuhan, China, and on to Enshi, the home to China’s Grand Canyon.
Enshi city was vibrant and alive, but nothing could have prepared me for the China I was about to see in the mountainous areas of Enshi Canyon. Several times during the trip, I reminded myself that, sometimes, ‘Less is More.’
Location
The view from the top of Enshi Canyon is breathtaking.
Enshi is the capital city of Hubei Province and is located inland, in the southwest region of Hubei. It’s an area of immense natural beauty with soaring mountains, deep canyons, meandering rivers, and great waterfalls. The mountain village is a two and a half-hour car ride from the bustling city.
The mountaintops are high above the skyline and the thousand-zhang waterfalls that tumble to the canyon floor below, feeding the underground rivers that flow through the Qungjiang River Valley of virgin forests and ancient villages.
Enshi proudly displays the peaks and valleys of what is known today as China’s Grand Canyon.
Enshi Grand Canyon
The Enshi Grand Canyon is located in Tunbao Village in the Town of Banqiao, high above the clouds. I climbed my way to the summit and experienced the views of a lifetime. Altogether, I hiked three of the five precipices in Enshi Canyon.
I was in awe as I gazed out toward the mystical land. The puffy clouds seemed close enough for me to touch and the precipices were like giant stalagmite stone fingers reaching toward the heavens.
Free from the hustle and bustle of the rest of China, there were no beeping horns, no crazy mopeds; just the serene stillness and beauty of nature.
A 67-Mile Canyon
The Enshi Canyon has a total length of 108 km (67 miles) and the total area is more than 300 sq. km (about 74,000 acres, or 115.8 sq. miles). As it’s only 1.7 miles wide, it makes the canyon long and narrow.
By comparison, the American Grand Canyon (1,218,560 acres/ 1,904 sq. miles) could hold sixteen Enshi Grand Canyons.
The significant difference between the two is that Enshi Grand Canyon is lush as opposed to the barren desert-like topography of America’s Grand Canyon.
Still, all the splendor and physical features that one would find in America’s Grand Canyon are contained within this smaller area, so it makes it a great place to visit for a day trip or longer.
All hard work and smiles, always, in Enshi.
The Magic
As I climbed the steep ridges of the mountains, at each turn, I came across villagers selling cold drinks, cooked potatoes, and hard-boiled eggs soaking in tea. Not an easy day’s work!
I was amazed at how the elders set up camps every day, hiking up and down these mountains with large sacks strapped on their backs. Great exercise keeps them fit.
As I paused to drink my water and catch my breath, a woman twice my age, with a gentle smile on her face, passed me. I used the universal sign for a photo to ask if I could take a picture. Her look of concern was followed by a big smile.
Moments after snapping the image, I shared it with her and several others who had stopped to watch. They seemed amazed at seeing themselves in the viewfinder. It was magic and they wanted more pictures.
This pretty little girl hiked the Enshi Grand Canyon with her family. I was proud of her as she kept up with everyone!
Then, a little boy stopped and pointed to my iPod. I let him listen to a song and his face beamed with amazement! More magic!
And, just like that, any concerns were replaced with trusting smiles. As we smiled and laughed together, the language barrier seemed to disappear.
Giant Golden Panda
As a tall, blond, westerner, I felt the introspective eyes of the locals on me in the more urban areas, but nothing prepared me for my reception in the isolated mountain settlements.
For many of the mountain people of Enshi, it appeared to me that I was the first American they had ever seen.
The children surrounded me, seemingly mesmerized by my blonde hair and green eyes. Mothers shooed their children closer to get a better look; the shy little ones hid behind their mother’s skirt, peeking out just enough to fill their curiosity.
My tall stature and lightly colored hair had the men following my every move with their eyes. Women would gather around just to hear me speak.
I felt like a giant golden panda. I laughed to myself as I thought that I haven’t turned this many heads since I was nineteen!
They wanted to know everything about me: who I was, where I came from, why I was there! I’m happy to say, I think I left a lasting positive impression.
Large statues oversee the grounds at Tusi Castle in Enshi, China.
The People Of Enshi’s Mountains
The people of rural Enshi are kind, hard-working, self-sufficient, and very isolated from the world. They live a hard life off the land, but their big smiles never seem to fade.
They are farmers of vegetables and tea and are proud of their daily life with each other. There is no running water for most and squat toilets for all.
I saw children with no shoes or with one worn pair, and I thought about my children with too many shoes. I saw all the diseased and sick dogs lying in the comfortable shade of old, tired trees and wanted to rescue them all.
I guess it’s all relative. My daily life of iPods, cell phones, and laptops is a world away from the mountain people of Enshi. They are surrounded every day by trees, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and beautiful lush green mountains. Maybe, they have it right!
The Other Enshi
There is another world below the mountains in the city of Enshi. By day, I would recommend a visit to Tusi Castle. It dates back to 700 AD and is a lesson in the culture of the area.
This Chieftain castle was destroyed by a fire in 2004 and perfectly restored soon after.
It is home to the largest archaized Pagoda style buildings in China.
As I wandered through the exhibits of architectural and decorative arts, I felt like I was walking through a living book. It tells the story of the Tujia folk cultures through sculptures, gardens, artwork, and furnishings.
Afterward, there is a must-see play that features the primitive reenactment of the local Chinese culture. It will make you feel as if you’ve been transported back in time.
Enshi City is alive and beautiful in the evening.
Lunch in Dingshihui
Make sure you head to Dingshihui for lunch! During a long hot day, I was looking forward to lunch and a drink, but I could never have imagined the surprise that Dingshihui had in store for me.
As I followed my guide up the stairs, my eyes became wide with amazement.
This fish dish is just one of the specialties at Dingshihui in Enshi City.
Dingshihui was like walking through a boutique-style hotel in Manhattan, and the food was incredible! I couldn’t believe that a luxurious oasis such as this existed in this city.
The city came alive in the evening. Neon lights lined the buildings and bridges in the Central Square and reflected off the river below.
There were men gathered in groups playing Mahjong and residents participating in a huge outdoor aerobics class.
The Lesson
The people of Enshi are an extended community where divisions of labor know no age and responsibilities are learned.
And who would have thought that the highlight of my trip to China would be the Grand Canyon of Enshi and the people who live there?
Enshi City
For all I thought I knew about China, it was all that I discovered I didn’t know that has added to the quality of my life. I want to return to this great experience and, if you’re as fortunate as I was, you’ll find a new world to discover.
Useful Information about Enshi China
Dried snake anyone?
For more information on travel in this area of China contact the CNTO- China National Tourist Office. They were extremely helpful and knowledgeable about all things China.
List of China tourism offices
While in Enshi I used Enshi Railway Travel Service Co., Ltd. They do not have a website so it makes it difficult to book anything in advance, but I assure you if you contact them directly upon your arrival in China they will make sure you have the time of your life.
They are located at No. 64 Hangkong Road, Enshi City. the phone number you can reach them at is (0086-718-) 8236262. Ask for Lucy to be your trusted guide; she will take wonderful care of you from start to finish.
To and From
I flew Air China from JFK Airport in NYC into Beijing Airport. I also flew China Southern throughout Hubei Province, Wuhan, and Enshi. Both airlines went out of their way to make me comfortable, the staff was friendly and the seating spacious.
The Enshi Dingshihui Dining Management Company, Ltd. Restaurant has no website. It remains a bit of a mystery. Ask your guide or taxi driver to bring you to the fanciest place to eat in Enshi City; I promise they will know. I do have phone numbers. Once you arrive in Enshi you can try your luck: 0718-8411717 or 0718-8495282.
While in Wuhan I was lucky to stay at the beautiful Shangri-La Hotel. The Shangri-La is located in the Hankou business area and is only 25 minutes from the Tianhe International Airport and only 15 minutes from the Yangtze River Pier.
Mount Wutai, home to over 53 sacred monasteries, stands as one of the Four Sacred Mountains of Chinese Buddhism. Each of these mountains is regarded as the bodhimaṇḍa of one of the four great bodhisattvas, and Wutai is the sacred domain of Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom. Revered since ancient times, Mount Wutai holds a profound spiritual significance, attracting countless pilgrims seeking enlightenment and divine blessings.
Mount Wutai was the first of the four great mountains to be identified and is often referred to as the “First Among the Four Great Mountains.” Due to its unique status, it is also known as “Golden Wutai.” The identification of this sacred site can be traced back to the Avataṃsaka Sūtra, which describes the abodes of many bodhisattvas. In this scripture, Manjushri is said to reside on a “clear cold mountain” in the northeast. This passage not only solidified Wutai’s spiritual identity but also inspired its alternative name, “Clear Cool Mountain.” With an annual average temperature of around -4°C and high-moisture air, the mountain’s name perfectly encapsulates its serene and pure atmosphere.
Legends tell of Manjushri’s frequent appearances on Mount Wutai, often taking the form of ordinary pilgrims, monks, or most notably, five-colored clouds. Among the many tales that surround this sacred land, the story of the Xielong Stone and the Dragon Temple remains one of the most awe-inspiring.
In ancient times, the climate of Mount Wutai was harsh—winters were bitterly cold, and powerful spring winds carried dust and sand, making the land inhospitable. At that time, the mountain was simply known as “Five Peaks Mountain.” Determined to transform Wutai into a haven for spiritual cultivation and to bring blessings to sentient beings, Manjushri sought the mystical Xielong Stone, a sacred gem held by the Dragon King of the Eastern Sea. This stone possessed miraculous powers that could regulate the climate, making the land fertile and serene.
Manjushri traveled to the Dragon Palace and humbly requested the Xielong Stone. However, the Dragon King hesitated, explaining, “This stone was left behind by the goddess Nüwa. It is a resting place for our dragon clan, and we cannot part with it.”
With infinite compassion, Manjushri responded, “I seek this stone to benefit all sentient beings. I hope you, great Dragon King, will fulfill this virtuous karmic connection.”
Although moved by Manjushri’s vow, the Dragon King was reluctant to relinquish the treasured stone. He assumed that even with his great dharma powers, Manjushri would be unable to move it, as it weighed tens of thousands of pounds. Feigning generosity, he said, “Great Bodhisattva, if you can take the stone, you may do so.”
To the Dragon King’s astonishment, Manjushri gently approached the stone, recited a divine mantra, and instantly shrank the massive rock to the size of a marble. With a flick of his sleeve, he stowed it away, bowed to the Dragon King, and effortlessly departed.
The Dragon King, realizing his mistake too late, could only watch in stunned regret.
When the five dragon princes returned to the palace and learned what had happened, they were enraged. Determined to reclaim the stone, they pursued Manjushri to Wutai Mountain. As they arrived, Manjushri sat in serene meditation, awaiting them.
Upon seeing him, the Fifth Dragon Prince demanded, “Are you truly the teacher of the Seven Buddhas, the Awakened Mother of the Three Periods, Manjushri Bodhisattva?”
Manjushri calmly replied, “Indeed, I am.”
Scoffing, the young dragon sneered, “It is said that past Buddhas were your disciples, yet you appear to be only fifteen or sixteen years old. How can this be?”
Manjushri then imparted a teaching:
“The Buddha taught that there are four things in the world that must never be underestimated:
A young prince—though small, he will one day rule the land and influence countless lives.
A young dragon—though young, he will one day command the winds and tides.
A small flame—though weak, it can grow into an all-consuming blaze.
A young monk—though inexperienced, he may attain supreme wisdom through practice.”
Hearing this, the young dragons began to reflect on the depth of Manjushri’s wisdom. However, the young dragons were still defiant. They demanded, “If you truly have great divine power, why not change the climate of Wutai Mountain directly? Why did you have to take the Xielong Stone?”
With patience, Manjushri explained, “Divine power can temporarily change conditions, but only through the Xielong Stone can Wutai Mountain remain perpetually cool and become a sanctuary for spiritual cultivation.”
Unconvinced, the young dragons retorted angrily, “So you admit that your power is limited! Return the stone at once, or we will show no mercy!”
Furious, the five dragons launched a fierce attack, unleashing their claws, storms, and lightning against Manjushri. Yet, no matter how they struck, they could not harm him in the slightest.
In their frustration, they began to tear at the mountains, hoping to shake the ground beneath Manjushri. Their immense strength clawed away the mountaintops, scattering rocks across the land, creating what is now known as the Dragon-Turned Stones (龙翻石).
Realizing the young dragons’ arrogance and aggression, Manjushri used his supreme power to subdue them. He sealed them beneath Mimo Rock (秘魔岩), merging two great peaks, leaving only a narrow crevice for them to reflect and temper their hearts. He then instructed the local mountain spirits and earth deities to ensure the dragons were provided with food and offerings, allowing them to cultivate patience and wisdom until their minds were at peace.
Later, the Dragon King of the Eastern Sea personally traveled to Wutai Mountain, pleading with Manjushri to release his sons.
With a compassionate smile, Manjushri assured him, “I have never harmed even an ant, let alone your five sons. They are here only to refine their minds. Once they achieve inner harmony, they will be freed naturally.”
To honor the young dragons and appease their spirits, Manjushri decreed that a Dragon King Temple be built in their name. There, they would receive offerings and incense from devoted followers, increasing their divine merits while they cultivated.
From then on, the Dragon King Temple on Wutai Mountain flourished, becoming a revered site for pilgrims seeking blessings for favorable weather and divine protection. Its existence symbolizes humanity’s reverence for the water deities and our hope for harmony between nature and sentient beings. Amidst the rising incense and prayers, worshippers not only feel the celestial blessings but also gain insight into wisdom and inner peace through spiritual practice.
Today’s Wutai Mountain is surrounded by lush green hills, beneath a sky of pure blue and auspicious clouds. In summer, the weather shifts between sunshine and rain, mist and fog. On clear days, the vast sky is brilliantly blue, filling the heart with joy and serenity; on rainy days, the misty veils create an atmosphere of elegance and tranquility, bringing deep peace to the soul. Strolling through the mountains, one feels naturally at ease and in harmony with the surroundings.
All of this, in truth, is a manifestation of the blessings and protection of Manjushri Bodhisattva. With His innate cool radiance, Manjushri employed the Dragon-Resting Gem to enlighten the beings of the dragon lineage. In doing so, He also established this sacred pure land of Wutai, where both ordinary and holy beings coexist. Here, He watches over this realm, awaiting the return of the countless wayfarers lost in the endless cycles of samsara.
The Chinese Lunar Lantern Festival, also known as the Yuan Xiao Festival, is a vibrant celebration that marks the end of the Chinese New Year festivities. This enchanting festival, rich in history and culture, is an opportunity for families to come together, enjoy delicious food, and marvel at the stunning displays of lanterns that illuminate the night sky.
The Origin of the Lantern Festival
The Lantern Festival is a traditional Chinese holiday that dates back over 2,000 years to the Western Han Dynasty. The custom of enjoying lanterns began during the Ming Dynasty under Emperor Ming, who promoted Buddhism. It is said that on the 15th day of the first lunar month, monks would observe Buddhist relics and light lamps in reverence. In response, the emperor ordered that lamps be lit in the palace and temples on this night, encouraging both nobles and commoners to hang lanterns. Over time, this Buddhist ceremonial festival gradually evolved into a grand folk celebration. The festival has transitioned from the imperial court to the general public and expanded from the Central Plains to the entire country. As the tradition evolved, lanterns became a central feature of the celebrations, symbolizing hope, prosperity, and good fortune.
How the Chinese Celebrate the Festival
The Lantern Festival is celebrated with various customs and activities that bring communities together. Here are some of the most cherished traditions:
Eating Tangyuan: A key highlight of the festival is the consumption of tangyuan, sweet glutinous rice balls filled with various fillings such as sesame paste, red bean paste, or peanut butter. These round dumplings symbolize family unity and togetherness.
Fireworks: In many regions, fireworks are set off to celebrate the occasion, adding to the festive atmosphere and marking the end of the New Year celebrations.
Lion Dances and Dragon Dances: Traditional lion and dragon dances are performed to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck. The rhythmic drumming and vibrant costumes add to the festive spirit.
Lantern Displays: People of all ages create and display colorful lanterns, often in intricate shapes and designs. These lanterns can be found in parks, streets, and temples, creating a magical atmosphere.
Solving Lantern Riddles: A fun and engaging activity during the festival is solving riddles written on lanterns. Families and friends gather to test their wits and enjoy the playful competition.
The Most Beautiful Places to See Lanterns
If you’re looking to experience the beauty of the Lantern Festival, several locations across China are renowned for their stunning lantern displays:
Beijing: The city’s parks, such as the Yuanmingyuan Park and the Temple of Earth Park, host impressive lantern displays, attracting thousands of visitors each year.
Shanghai: The Yuyuan Garden in Shanghai is transformed into a lantern wonderland, featuring elaborate designs and a lively atmosphere, making it a must-visit during the festival.
Hangzhou: Known for its picturesque West Lake, Hangzhou hosts beautiful lantern displays that reflect off the water, creating a breathtaking sight.
Chaozhou: This city in Guangdong Province is famous for its traditional lantern-making techniques, and visitors can witness the craftsmanship and creativity of local artisans.
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The Chinese Lunar Lantern Festival is a captivating celebration that brings together tradition, culture, and community. As families gather to enjoy delicious food, admire beautiful lanterns, and participate in lively activities, the festival serves as a reminder of the importance of unity and hope. Whether you’re in China or celebrating from afar, the Lantern Festival is a time to reflect on the past year and look forward to the future, illuminated by the light of countless lanterns.
As winter blankets the northern regions of China, the city of Harbin transforms into a breathtaking wonderland, captivating visitors with its stunning ice and snow sculptures. Known as the “Ice City,” Harbin hosts the annual Harbin International Ice and Snow Festival, one of the largest and most spectacular winter festivals in the world.
Every year, from early January to late February, Harbin comes alive with vibrant ice and snow displays that showcase the incredible artistry and creativity of sculptors from around the globe. The festival features massive ice castles, intricate sculptures, and dazzling light displays that create a fairy-tale atmosphere. The main venue, the Harbin Ice and Snow World, spans over 600,000 square meters and is filled with stunning structures made entirely of ice blocks harvested from the nearby Songhua River.
Marvel at the Sculptures
Walking through the festival is like stepping into a dream. You’ll find life-sized replicas of famous landmarks, such as the Eiffel Tower and St. Basil’s Cathedral, all crafted from glistening ice. The attention to detail is astounding, with artists using colored lights to enhance the beauty of their creations. Each year, the sculptures reflect a different theme, ensuring that no two festivals are alike.
Engage in Winter Activities
Beyond the awe-inspiring sculptures, Harbin offers a plethora of winter activities to keep visitors entertained. Ice skating, snow tubing, and even ice swimming are just a few of the thrilling experiences you can enjoy. For those seeking a more leisurely pace, horse-drawn sleigh rides through the snow-covered landscape provide a charming way to soak in the winter scenery.
Cultural Experiences
Harbin is not just about ice and snow; it’s also a city rich in history and culture. The influence of Russian architecture is evident throughout the city, particularly in the stunning St. Sophia Cathedral. Take the time to explore the local cuisine as well, with hearty dishes like dumplings and hot pot that are perfect for warming up after a day in the cold.
If you’re considering a trip to Harbin, be sure to dress warmly! Temperatures can drop well below freezing, so layers, thermal clothing, and insulated boots are essential. The best time to visit is during the festival, but the beauty of Harbin’s winter landscape can be enjoyed throughout the snowy season.
Autumn is often called “Golden Autumn,” a name inspired by the vibrant yellow hues of trees and plants that adorn the season. Among them, the ginkgo tree stands out, its radiant golden leaves creating a spectacle often described as “magnificent” and “resplendent.” This season marks the peak of the ginkgo tree’s beauty, transforming landscapes into breathtaking golden vistas.
A Living Fossil of Resilience
The ginkgo tree, also known as Ginkgo biloba or the “maidenhair tree,” is a living fossil, dating back over 150 million years. It is the sole survivor of an ancient plant lineage, standing tall as a testament to nature’s endurance. With its unique fan-shaped, two-lobed leaves that turn brilliant yellow in fall, the ginkgo has earned its place as a symbol of both beauty and longevity.
This ancient tree boasts remarkable regenerative powers. Mature ginkgo trees often give rise to thriving saplings, symbolizing vitality and the continuation of life. In Chinese culture, this resilience is likened to familial prosperity, embodying aspirations for blessings and generational success.
Medicinal Value and Modern Research
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the ginkgo has significant medicinal properties. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) uses its leaves and seeds for various remedies. Today, modern science highlights ginkgo leaf extract for its rich antioxidant content and potential benefits for brain function, circulation, and overall well-being.
A Sacred Symbol in Buddhism
In Chinese tradition, the ginkgo tree holds deep cultural and spiritual meaning. It symbolizes purity, endurance, and good fortune. Within Buddhism, the ginkgo is revered as the “Buddha tree,” representing enlightenment and spiritual resilience. Its longevity and abundant fruit make it a substitute for the sacred Bodhi tree in many temples.
During autumn, the ginkgo’s golden canopy creates a serene atmosphere in temple grounds, harmonizing with the red walls and golden roofs. This visual splendor evokes reverence and awe, inspiring mindfulness and devotion among practitioners.
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Ginkgo Tree at Xi’an’s Guanyin Zen Temple: A 1,400-Year-Old Beauty
The Thousand-Year-Old Ginkgo Tree at Tanzhe Temple, titled the “Emperor Tree” by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, is an extraordinary natural treasure. Standing over 24 meters tall with a trunk diameter exceeding 4 meters, it takes six or seven people joining hands to encircle its massive base. The tree’s canopy spans an area of more than 600 square meters, providing ample shade. Estimated to be over 1,300 years old, this tree is a testament to resilience and history.
Ginkgo Tree at Tanzhe Temple
Dinghui Temple, a favorite spot for Suzhou residents to photograph ginkgo trees, is home to two towering, century-old ginkgo trees standing prominently in front of the main hall. In autumn, their golden leaves cascade to the ground, creating a dazzling and picturesque scene. (photos from https://news.qq.com/rain/a/20231105A07FBH00)
Suzhou City: DingHui Temple
At the ancient Huiji Temple, Nanjing City, three venerable ginkgo trees, each over 1,500 years old, grace the temple grounds. As autumn arrives, their golden leaves blanket the treetops, creating a breathtaking contrast against the temple’s white walls and dark-tiled roofs. The scene resembles a magnificent ink-wash painting, captivating visitors with its timeless beauty. (photos from https://news.qq.com/rain/a/20231105A07FBH00)
Artistic and Symbolic Significance
The ginkgo tree’s durable and fine-grained wood is prized for carving Buddha statues, earning it the moniker “Buddha’s fingernail.” Its leaves, resembling flames, symbolize light and warmth. In Buddhist tradition, the golden hue of ginkgo leaves reflects the nobility and purity of the Buddha’s body, which represents eternal light and wisdom.
The Buddha’s golden body, seen as untainted and impervious to worldly suffering, mirrors the ginkgo’s enduring nature. Similarly, the Buddha’s radiance is believed to dispel darkness, illuminate ignorance, and guide all beings toward compassion and enlightenment.
A Tree of Light and Legacy
The ginkgo tree, with its awe-inspiring beauty and profound cultural significance, is more than just a tree—it is a symbol of life, hope, and spiritual awakening. Its golden leaves remind us of the light within, inspiring resilience and reverence for nature’s timeless wisdom.
As we marvel at the ginkgo tree’s breathtaking beauty and the profound symbolism it holds, let it also serve as a gentle reminder of our responsibility to protect the natural world. These ancient trees, along with the countless wonders of nature, depend on our collective efforts to preserve their existence. By cherishing and safeguarding our planet, we ensure that future generations can continue to experience and draw inspiration from the harmonious balance and enduring wisdom of nature.
Peace LiLy 